This is most certainly the most charming mix of East and West I have ever seen in tea ceremony. It allows the host to wear proper western dress without compromising the Japanese elegance of the temae. I wish it had more popularity than the usual methods of tucking in the fukusa when in Western dress, which just look awkward and inconvenient.
The Basics of Mushanokoji-senke style Tea by SEN Soujuu
The Fukusa when in Western Clothing
In modern life, both men and women are increasing experiences occasions to make tea while wearing Western clothing. Here we talk about how to use the fukusa in such situations.
Because we do not put soiled items into the breast pocket of a dress jacket, it is a clean place. When wearing Western clothing, let’s tuck the fukusa in there.
(32) Just as we normally do, take the fukusa at point A with the right hand and point C with the left hand and fold it into a triangle.
(33) Then bringing corners of A and C together, hold them together with the right thumb.
(34) Hold it laying corners B and D together and bring it in front of your body.
(35) Fold up one third on the right side.
(36) Then fold over that one third on the left side and hold the shape in the right hand.
(37) Put it into your breast pocket just like that!
(38) When performing fukusa-sabaki during the temae, first take it out of your pocket with your right hand.
(39) Without disarraying the shape, switch it to your left hand.
(40) Then, take corner A, which will be the layer at the very bottom, with your right hand.
(41) Let the fukusa fall open over your left knee. After that, continue with fukusa-sabaki as normal.
茶の湯全書by主婦の友社編
主婦の友社、東京（1956）
武者小路千家の点前基礎：洋服のときのふくさ（p398-9）by千・宗守
現代の生活では、男女ともに洋服で茶をたてる機会がふえてきました。そのときのふくさ扱いについてのべましょう。
洋服の胸のポケットには、よごれたものをいれませんから、清らかです。洋服のときはこゝを利用して、ふくさをつけます。
（32）いつものように、右手でA、左手でC、と三角に折って持ったふくさを、両手を寄せて手前に二つに折り、
（33）AとCを重ねて右指に持ち、
（34）左指でBとDの重なりを持って、体正面にかまえます。
（35）右側三分の一を折り、
（36）その上に左側三分の一を折り重ねて、右手に渡し、
（37）そのまゝ胸のポケットに入れます。
（38）お手前の中で、ふくささばきをするときは、まず右手でポケットから抜き出し、
（39）そのまゝの向きで左手に持たせ、
（40）このとき、いちばん下側に見えるAを右手でとって、
（41）左膝頭にたらし、あとは、普通のふくささばきと同様に（8）（9）（10）･･･とつゞきます。
幽窓茶道 
March 17, 2014 at 09:22
That certainly looks very classy! If I’m lucky I can get my belt to look coordinated with the western clothes I wear to tea practice, but I’m glad I had kimono to wear at the few formal ceremonies I’ve attended or served at. Though western cloths seem more functional in most circumstances, their pockets are not always so graceful and easy to use.
I cannot remember the name, but one of the schools at the Matsue-jo Daichakai serves black tea and decorates in a Anglo-Japanese style. I have not attended ones of these yet because they tend to have a long line.
March 17, 2014 at 13:18
I usually wear western clothing at tea practice too, although we use a sort of vest that imitates the kimono, so we don’t have to worry about how to tuck the fukusa into our western clothing. Almost all the the chakai I’ve gone to, as well, almost everyone was in kimono. That said, I don’t think I been exposed to that much variety in tea practice. Reading your description of the Daichakai on your blog made me very jealous. `(๑ △ ๑)`*
March 17, 2014 at 13:51
It sounds useful, but I’m having trouble picturing how this vest would work. Does it have a mock-obi, or pockets for the fukusa and kaishi?
I’ve only been practicing for one year now, so I’ve only been to a small handful of chakai. At the smaller ones most people were in kimono, but at the larger ones with groups of people coming in and out all day long, and there was a big mix of kimono and western clothes. The Daichakai is really nice because most of it good for people who have had no prior to the tea ceremony (so they can sit in chairs, wear western clothes, and not worry about fulfilling the roles of the guests as everything is explained to them in layman’s terms), but also good for practicioners who want to have fun trying out completely different styles, or showing off their own. Although it’s a good chance to dress up in kimono, some people will dress up in fancy western clothes to go attend other ceremonies on one day and dress in kimono where they are serving on the other day. With any luck I won’t be working this time so that I can at least do the ohakobi with my classmates!
March 17, 2014 at 18:13
I saw this neat method at an ochakai a few weeks ago. At first I was surprised to see the fukusa in his breast pocket but it made perfect sense and worked smoothly. Mine generally gets all crushed up in my belt or waist. Thank you.
March 17, 2014 at 20:36
I am glad you could enjoy this method too!
Was it at a Mushanokoji temae?
March 18, 2014 at 23:33
Yes, it was.
March 17, 2014 at 20:33
The vest is a little hard to describe in words, but it is basically two overlapping triangles attached to a sash that you tie around your torso. Your kaishi and kobukusa etc can be put in the “kaichuu” area where the triangles overlap and the fukusa is tucked into the sash. In Japanese I think it is just called a “Vest Type Okeiko-gi”. You can buy one at a chadogu-ya, but I think it would be pretty easy to make yourself as well.
The Daichakai really does sound fun. I think being introduced to and experiencing new/different elements and situations is important for living tea so to speak. You might be too busy if you are making and serving tea with your classmates, but you will have to take take and post pictures of the next Daichakai!
March 18, 2014 at 02:11
Oh, this is so amazing. Like a lot of male students without kimono, I’m asked to just wear a standard belt and to tuck my fukusa into it, but the belt’s a bit low to be reached while keeping seiza. This definitely goes in my Evernote.
March 19, 2014 at 18:04
I am glad you could fine it useful! The belt on a modern western suit really isn’t at the right place for tucking the fukusa, is it. (^.^)?
March 25, 2014 at 20:53
At my tea group in Belgium, when we practice, the women usually wrap a datejime around their waist, over their western clothes, and use that to hold the fukusa. Some of them use the vest-type okeiko gi. Most men wear samue, with a simple Japanese style belt. At saji, we wear kimono. But the method you describe is very elegant for formal gatherings! Thank you for sharing this ^_^
March 26, 2014 at 18:35
Thank you for your comment! Samue sounds like a good idea as practice clothing!
Wrapping an obi-jime or another type of belt is very common here in Japan, and I think is convenient and practical for okeiko. But, I would prefer another option in the case of western clothing at a chakai.
March 26, 2014 at 18:41
I was wondering what the most appropriate western apparel for women to wear to chakai is? Should they wear a suit as well?
March 26, 2014 at 18:54
Haruko-chan:
As the host or helper at a chakai, I would definitely wear a suit.
As a guest, I think there is a bit more freedom. Based on my experience, you cannot go wrong wearing a suit, although be careful the skirt isn’t to short/tight to be able to sit in seiza. Also, it would be a good idea to bring white socks to put on over your hose or tights.
Slightly less formal wear, such as a “fun” suit (such as one with a filly collar or in an unusual color), or a skirt and blazer should be fine too. A nice sweater or blouse is probably okay. I would also say that something more girly, like a cute party dress (with sleeves) would be fine too.
And, of course if you are student, you should wear your school uniform. This doesn’t apply if your school uniform is a T-shirt.
Basically, something modest and not too flashy that is more formal than jeans/T-shirt.
November 13, 2015 at 10:02
I love this. Makes me want to have a fukusa in my breast pocket all the time. Thanks for the interesting article.
November 18, 2015 at 09:01
I am glad you liked it!