裂地名鑑


YazaemonKanto4Yazaemon Kanto
Yazaemon’s Plaid

Pattern: Stripes
Weave: Kantou

One of the famed fabrics (meibutsu). It has been passed down that MICHIDA Yazaemon brought it back from Song China, but its origin is not clear. This kanto was used for the shifuku of the Great Meibutsu “Hino Katatsuke Chaire” and of the Revived Meibutsu “Tama Tsushima Chaire”.

弥左衛門間道
やざえもんかんとう

文様: 縞
織: 間道

名物裂の一つ。博多の満田弥左衛門が宋より持ち帰ったと伝えられるが、伝来は不詳。この間道は、大名物「日野肩衝茶入」や中興名物「玉津島茶入」の仕覆に用いられている。

YazaemonKanto1

YazaemonKanto2

YazaemonKanto3
The above are variations of Yazaemon Kanto. ヽ(*⌒∇⌒*)ノ

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Kiri Karakusa Kinran
Pauwlonia and Vines Brocade

Background Colour: Palm Red
Pattern: Pauwlonia, Arabesques
Weave: Gold Brocade

This pattern differs from the usual pauwlonia pattern by it’s surface being completely filled up with a realistic pattern of pauwlonia and arabesques. The most famous fabric with the pauwlonia arabesque pattern is Palace Pauwlonia Brocade (Ohuchi Giri Kinran).

桐唐草金襴
きりからくさきんらん

桐文
地色:しゅろ
文様:桐・唐草
織り方:金襴

通常の桐文とは異なる写実的な桐と唐草文が全面を埋めつくす図柄。桐唐草の裂として著名なものに、大内桐金襴がある。

Pawlonia and Vines Shouha
Kiri Karakusa Shouha

Pauwlonia Patterned
Background Colour: Pale Indigo
Pattern: Pauwlonia, Chinese Vines
Weave: Shouha

A design with many flowers adorning a pale indigo background, while deeply-notched three-leaved pauwlonia along with chinese vines are distributed across the fabric, changing their orientation each row.

*Translator: Paulownia was named for a Russian princess named Anna Pavlovia. It was of course the crest of the House of Tokugawa, specifically the 5-7-5 flowering paulownia was. It is not only pretty tree, but a useful wood out of which dressers can be made. “Karakusa” literally means Chinese grass. But I translate it as vines or arabesques, since that design is closer to what it resembles.

桐唐草紹巴
きりからくさしょうは

桐文
地色:縹
文様:桐・唐草
織り方:紹巴

縹色の地に、多くの花をつけ、切り込みの深い三枚の桐文を唐草とともに各段ごとに向きを変えて配した図柄。

Takagi Kantou
Tall Tree Kanto

Pattern: Stripes
Weave: Kantou

One of the famous fabrics. It’s said that Kozaemon, a merchant of Hakata, imported it from China. Using deep blue and yellow threads, it has a design of horizontal, yellow pinstrips, with vertical, blue wide stripes. Furthermore, there are both thick and thin types of takagi kanto.

高木間道
たかぎかんとう

文様:縞
織り方:間道

名物裂の一つ。博多の商人、小左衛門が中国より輸入したと伝える。紺と黄の色糸を用い、経の黄色の細縞と、紺の幅広の横縞で模様をあらわす。なお、高木間道には厚手と薄手の二種があるという。

Shouha Haibisukasu Mon
Shouha’s Chinese Hibiscus Pattern

Flower Patterned
Background Colour: Camel Brown (also in Adzuki Red)
Pattern: Hibiscus
Weave: Shouha

There are many examples of stylized designs of freely distributed large flowers, but this unaffected pattern of hibiscuses compells the veiwer to draw near. Hibiscus is a general term for rosemallows, including the Chinese hibiscus.

紹巴仏桑華文
しょうはハイビスカスもん

花文
地色:駱駝(小豆)
文様:ハイビスカス
織り方:紹巴

大輪の花文を駆使し様式化したデザイン例は多々あるが、これは仏桑華(ハイビスカス)そのもので飾り気がなく、見る人に迫る図柄。ハイビスカスは、仏桑華を含むアオイ科フヨウ属の植物の総称。

Wicker Backed Pattern Cherry and Maple Damask
Ojiro-Ji Mon Oufuu Donsu

Cherry and Maple Pattern
Background colour: White (also in Pale Indigo, Brick Red, Cinnabar, or Decayed Leaf)
Pattern: Wickerwork, Cherry Blossom, Maple Leaf
Weave: Damask

An ingenious pattern of cherry blossoms and crooked twigs along with individual maple leafs both large and small are scattered upon a background of the diagonally woven mesh of wicker. The pattern of cherry and maple together is also called “Cloud Brocade”.

網代地文桜楓緞子
おじろじもんおうふうどんす

桜楓文
地色:白(藍白、れんが、朱、朽葉)
文様:網代・桜・楓
織り方:緞子

斜めに編んだ網代の網目の地文に、工夫を凝らした桜の花や折枝と楓の葉一枚の大小文様を散らした意匠。桜と楓を組み合わせた意匠を「雲錦」ともいう。

Plum Flower and Bird Patterned Brocade
Kachoubai Kamon Nishiki

Background colour: Green (also in Mouse-Grey or Red)
Pattern: Six-petal flowers, Birds, Geometric patterns
Weave: Warp Brocade

A pattern of six petaled flowers in the style of plum blossoms that are lined up with youraku styled geometric patterns and small birds distributed in between. This pattern is one often seen in Nara period textiles.

Note: Youraku are a crown like golden canopy with many ornate hanging pieces usually built over a Buddhist statue.

花鳥梅花文錦
かちょうばいかもんにしき

梅花文
地色:緑(鼡、赤)
文様:六瓣花・鳥・幾何学文
織り方:経錦

梅花風の六瓣の花を並べ、その間に瓔珞(ようらく)状の幾何学文と小さい鳥文を配した図柄。この意匠は奈良時代の裂に多く見られるものの一つである。

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